Biryani is a project. Rice cooked one way, meat cooked another, then layered and steamed together, with a spice blend that has to work through all of it.

The paste takes out the hardest part, which is getting the masala right before you commit an afternoon.

Marinate your meat in the paste with yoghurt, cook it down, then layer with parboiled basmati, seal the pot and steam. Fried onion, mint and saffron milk on top if you are doing it properly.

Available at Curry Corner in North Melbourne.