Ferns’ hot curry paste comes at heat from the Goan direction, which means vinegar as well as chilli. The sourness carries the heat rather than sitting behind it.

It tastes different from the Bangalore-style hot pastes on the same shelf, and it is worth trying both.

Fry it off with onion, add pork, chicken or fish, and finish with a little more vinegar if you want the edge sharpened. Serve with plain rice and something cooling on the side.

Available at Curry Corner in North Melbourne.